Wine Collecting: SUPER TUSCAN Wines & 5 Top Super Tuscan Wine Producers
Audio Brief
Show transcript
This episode explores the history, definition, and iconic producers of Super Tuscan wines, revealing their origin as a rebellion against restrictive Italian wine laws.
There are three key takeaways from this discussion. First, Super Tuscan wines emerged from a pivotal moment where producers prioritized quality over restrictive regulations. Second, these wines encompass diverse styles, from Bordeaux-style blends found in coastal Bolgheri to pure Sangiovese expressions from inland Chianti Classico. Third, while many iconic Super Tuscans are expensive, top estates often offer excellent "second wines" providing a more accessible taste of their house style.
Super Tuscans are high-quality Tuscan red wines that intentionally fall outside traditional Denominazione di Origine Controllata regulations. This movement began in the mid-20th century as visionary producers, frustrated by rules mandating white grapes and limiting Sangiovese, sought to create superior wines. Initially, these non-compliant wines were relegated to the lowest "Vino da Tavola" classification despite their quality.
The commercial and critical success of these wines prompted the Italian government to create the Indicazione Geografica Tipica, or IGT, classification in 1992. This established a new category for high-quality wines that didn't meet strict DOC or DOCG standards, legitimizing the Super Tuscan movement. The foundational narrative began with Sassicaia, showing the potential of non-traditional grapes in Tuscany.
Super Tuscans are categorized into two major styles. One group consists of wines based on international Bordeaux varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, often originating from the coastal Bolgheri region. Sassicaia and Ornellaia exemplify this style.
The second style features wines based purely on the indigenous Sangiovese grape, often as 100% varietal expressions. These typically come from the inland Chianti Classico area, with wines like Flaccianello and Le Pergole Torte showcasing the grape's potential when unrestricted. Even renowned Merlot-focused wines like Masseto defy stereotypes, proving the world-class quality achievable with international grapes.
Experiencing iconic Super Tuscans can be costly, given their high demand and critical acclaim. However, many premier estates produce more affordable "second wines" such as Guidalberto from the makers of Sassicaia. These offer a genuine taste of the estate's quality and winemaking philosophy at a more accessible price point.
Ultimately, Super Tuscans stand as a testament to innovation and a relentless pursuit of quality that redefined Italian winemaking.
Episode Overview
- An exploration of the history and definition of Super Tuscan wines, detailing their origin as a rebellion against restrictive Italian wine laws.
- A breakdown of the two primary styles of Super Tuscans: those based on international grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and those focused on the native Sangiovese grape.
- An in-depth discussion of five iconic Super Tuscan producers, including the stories behind their most famous wines.
- Practical advice on notable vintages, price points, and how to experience these celebrated wines, including more affordable "second wines" from top estates.
Key Concepts
- Super Tuscan Definition: High-quality Tuscan red wines that intentionally fall outside the Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC/DOCG) regulations. They often blend Sangiovese with non-traditional international varieties (like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) or are made from 100% of these grapes.
- The Sassicaia Story: The foundational narrative of the Super Tuscan movement, beginning with Mario Incisa della Rocchetta planting Cabernet Sauvignon at Tenuta San Guido in Bolgheri. This led to the creation of Sassicaia, a wine that eventually gained international acclaim and proved the potential of non-traditional grapes in Tuscany.
- Rebellion Against DOC Rules: In the mid-20th century, Chianti Classico rules were perceived as stifling quality by mandating the inclusion of white grapes and limiting the percentage of Sangiovese. Visionary producers opted out, creating superior wines that were initially relegated to the lowest classification, "Vino da Tavola" (Table Wine).
- Creation of IGT: The commercial and critical success of these non-compliant wines prompted the Italian government to create the Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) classification in 1992, establishing a category for high-quality wines that didn't meet strict DOC/DOCG standards.
- Two Major Styles: The episode categorizes Super Tuscans into two main groups: 1) Wines based on international Bordeaux varietals, often from the coastal Bolgheri region (e.g., Sassicaia, Ornellaia). 2) Wines based on the indigenous Sangiovese grape, often 100% varietal expressions from the inland Chianti Classico area (e.g., Flaccianello, Le Pergole Torte).
Quotes
- At 03:30 - "At the time, it was focused largely on production output and not so much with quality." - Explaining the state of the Italian wine industry in the 1960s and 70s, which served as the catalyst for the Super Tuscan quality revolution.
- At 04:18 - "The term Super Tuscan was coined to refer to high-quality Tuscan wines that were not made in strict accordance with the DOC requirements." - Providing the core definition and origin of the "Super Tuscan" name.
- At 11:20 - "For those of you who say you hate Merlot, I challenge you to try Masseto and tell me that you don't like it." - Highlighting the exceptional, world-class quality of Masseto, a 100% Merlot Super Tuscan that defies common stereotypes about the grape.
Takeaways
- Super Tuscan wines represent a pivotal moment in Italian wine history where producers chose to prioritize quality over conforming to restrictive regulations.
- These wines are not a monolith; they range from Bordeaux-style blends from coastal areas like Bolgheri to pure Sangiovese expressions from traditional inland regions like Chianti Classico.
- While iconic Super Tuscans are expensive, many top estates produce excellent "second wines" (e.g., Guidalberto from the makers of Sassicaia) that offer a taste of the house style at a more accessible price.
- A fantastic way to appreciate the unique character of a Super Tuscan is to conduct a blind tasting, comparing it against a Bordeaux and a Napa Cabernet from the same vintage to understand its distinct profile.
